Beyond Size Labels - Consider These Factors When Searching for Your Size

Determining your true clothing size in the current fashion market can be a challenge. Sizing can be difficult to interpret, especially when are so many sizing charts, international sizing conversions, and sizing inconsistencies between different brands.

For garments which are sold as women’s clothing, it’s usually a harder task to determine what your true size is. Frankly, there is no one universal sizing chart which you can base your body on. However, there are a number of factors at play which are out of your control which influence how clothes are sized.

It’s time to debunk some of these aspects of sizing and why the number or size on a tag should not deter you from wearing a piece of clothing that isn’t your true size.

1. Clothing which is cut differently from standard fits

‘I’m a size X, so I’ll always be this size for every piece of clothing I wear’

Fashion has evolved over time and all garments don’t necessarily ‘fit’ in to the size they’re categorised in to. Loose fit, boxy fit, oversized fit, and slim fit are some examples of how garments can be designed to fit.

A modern day example is the cut of a t-shirt, which ranges from super fitted to super oversized styles. Let’s say you’re considering two t-shirts which are both sized as a ‘small’, however one is labelled as ‘oversized fit’ and the other is labelled ‘slim fit’. You like the cut of the ‘oversized fit’ t-shirt, but you feel that it is too big. In this case, it would be appropriate to size down from your true size in order to achieve your desired fit.

If a garment is so oversized that you need to size down in order to achieve your desired fit, or if it is too fitted that you need to size up, then that will be the right size for you, even if you always think you’re a small.

It’s important then to pay attention to the cut of the garment. By paying attention to this, you can determine what size actually fits you best, as opposed to just considering the size in your decision making.

2. The use of vanity sizing by fashion labels

Sizing standards have evolved over time, due to a greater understanding of different body proportions and diverse body shapes and sizes. As bodies grew and as cultural diversity became more prominent in our societies, a typical size eight for example has had its measurements adjusted over time to accommodate for such socio-cultural factors (source: Time Magazine). An example of this is seen through vintage clothing sizes, in which the size indicated on such garments are usually suitable for modern era smaller sizes (i.e. a vintage size 14 fits a size 10-12 in today’s sizing standards).

The inflation of size measurements in clothing sizes is known as vanity sizing. This is where clothing sizes remain the same, despite the measurements of the sizes having increased. Vanity sizing then, can make us feel that we have remained the same size despite our bodies growing, and in turn can create confusion about both our size and bodies.

You’ll find that some fashion labels either run big or small, which is usually no coincidence. Clothing sizes, although measured using objective criteria, are subject to influence. Whether or not brands deliberately use vanity sizing to make their customers happier that they can fit in to a lower size than their usual size is always up for debate.

3. Clothing which is sized for a specific region of the world

Depending on the country of origin of a fashion label, sizing can be determined by the type of typical bodies which reside in such countries.

Generally, Asian-based fashion labels tend to size their garments to suit more slender and non-boxy bodies. American-based fashion labels tend to size their garments a bit more generously and in a more-boxy way. European-based labels are somewhat more so geared towards a slimmer fit, and Australian-based labels sit somewhere between European and American sizing.

Indeed, there are instances in which they can very similar, especially if they use international sizing charts to determine how to best size their clothing.

International sizes are usually converted as ‘equivalent to’ x size for different international markets, however does not necessarily mean that they are an exact conversion. So, it can be beneficial to understand the design aesthetic and influences of an international fashion label.

4. Body fluctuations which occur throughout the day and different stages of life

Your body fluctuates throughout the day and throughout different stages of your life. In fact, your size could perhaps vary slightly depending on what time of the day it is.

The time of the day when you try an item on may play a factor in determining what size is best for you. Take shoes for example, by the end of the day your feet swell a little, so if you try on a pair of shoes at the beginning of the day they may not be the right size for you by the end of your day.

So yes, you may fit snugly in to those jeans babe, but ask yourself, can you sit down, or have you eaten or could you eat a meal and still be comfortable in them? If not, then it may be worth opting for the size above to allow your body to do its fundamental human functioning thing.

5. Sizes which do not always take in to account of the diversity of human bodies

Prior to the era of ready-to-wear clothing, people would have their clothes tailor made to their bodies, as clothing was regarded as an item that was purchased infrequently or out of necessity. The general process was to get fitted for the garment, pick out fabrics, place an order, and then have it made over a period of time.

Fast forward to the present state of fashion, and the majority of garments on the fashion market are ready-to-wear items with an array of different sizes to choose from. Having a wide selection of sizes to choose from is very convenient for most of us, as it allows you to find your size without having to wait. However, what you’ll find with ready-to-wear clothing is that it may not fit you 100% right sometimes.

This is mainly due to the manner in which different sizes are determined. Bigger sizes are calculated by adding X centimetres from the previous size, and smaller sizes are calculated by deducting X centimetres from the size that comes after it. The issue with this is that it doesn’t take in to account individual differences in each of our bodies. Our bodies are unique to each one of us, which in turn makes it a near-impossible task to account for all diverse bodies in fast-paced production lines of ready-to-wear clothing.  

This is why you sometimes experience that your usual size doesn’t fit you, however the size above is too big and the size below is too small. To truly have a piece which fits you perfectly, you’ll need to take it to a tailor. Bear in mind that not all aspects can be altered, and it’s best to find a garment which is a close-enough fit in order for a piece to be tailored well.

The importance of sizing

At the end of the day, I’m not suggesting that we ditch sizes altogether. They’re a good starting point for determining how clothes should fit your body. Rather, the aspects discussed emphasise that there is more to the size label which you see on a piece of clothing.

Creating more inclusive sizing for example is important to improve fashion’s accessibility and representativeness of all our unique bodies.